The Reformation REVOLUTION



 

A period in history that changed the face of Great Britain 

Queen Elizabeth. Portrait commemorating the defeat of the Spanish Armada, depicted in the background. Elizabeth's hand rests on the globe, symbolising her international power. One of three known versions of the "Armada Portrait".
The Spanish Armada was an enormous 130-ship naval fleet dispatched by Spain in 1588 as part of a planned invasion of England. Following years of hostilities between Spain and England, King Philip II of Spain assembled the flotilla in the hope of removing Protestant Queen Elizabeth I from the throne and restoring the Roman Catholic faith in England. Spain’s “Invincible Armada” set sail that May, but it was outfoxed by the English, then battered by storms while limping back to Spain with at least a third of its ships sunk or damaged. The defeat of the Spanish Armada led to a surge of national pride in England and was one of the most significant chapters of the Anglo-Spanish War.

Queen Elizabeth I, through her first Parliament, enacted the Act of Uniformity, which mandated the widespread distribution of the English Bible, the adoption of the Common Prayer Book in all churches, and compulsory attendance at church services. This marked a significant shift in our nation's religious identity, establishing Protestantism as the dominant faith.
Under this new law, clergy members were required to express their acceptance of these changes or risk losing their positions. In Derby, only the vicar of St. Peter's affixed his signature to this declaration of faith. The Archdeacon, on the other hand, was removed from his post because of his refusal to comply. However, some clergymen managed to find ways to circumvent this regulation and retained their positions.

The adherents of Roman Catholicism, often referred to as "Roman Catholics" in our time, were known as "papists" during the Elizabethan era, and they faced relentless persecution. Derby gained notoriety for its rigorous enforcement of this policy, primarily through the County Quarter Sessions rather than the Borough Court. While the townspeople largely converted to Protestantism, many families in the county continued to uphold the old faith. Furthermore, the remote and rugged landscape of the Peak region provided a refuge for religious refugees, further solidifying Derby's role as a centre of religious persecution.

Among the recusants in the county, Sir Thomas FitzHerbert of Norbury, as conveyed by a letter from the Bishop of Lincoln to Sir William Cecil, the Queen's Secretary, was described as "a very resolute individual." Instead of attending church, he endured imprisonment for thirty years. This family experienced several such martyrs. Robert Bainbridge, an unsavoury character who served as a government informant, reported on John FitzHerbert's son, Anthony, branding him as the most prominent recusant in the county. Subsequently, Anthony was incarcerated in the County Gaol, where he succumbed to the perils of gaol fever. The persecution extended to both the poor and the affluent, driven by their adherence to their beliefs. In the year of the Spanish Armada, the County Gaol housed thirty-seven recusants, including ten "servants," a lame individual, and a farmer, all of whom met their demise.

The extent of this fervour is exemplified by the case of Humphrey Beresford, a barrister, who found himself accused by his own father of being a "recusant" while presenting a case at Derby Assizes. Humphrey was subsequently confined to the County Gaol, where he, too, met his end.

Perhaps the most tragic tale involves three Roman Catholic priests: Robert Ludlam, Nicholas Garlick, and Richard Sympson. The first two were apprehended while hiding in the chimney of Padley Chapel near Grindleford and were brought to Derby. All three were subjected to trial and condemned to the gruesome fate of being "hung, drawn, and quartered." This horrifying sentence was indeed executed on July 25th, 1588. Their remains were displayed on St. Mary's Bridge as a deterrent, until "two resolute Catholic gentlemen" clandestinely buried them in the dead of night.

Padley Chapel
A plaque in St Mary’s Church, Derby.

Many catholic priests hid inside what is called a priest hole. Many great houses had a priest hole built so that the presence of a priest could be concealed when searches were made of the building. They were concealed in walls, under floors, behind wainscoting and other locations and were often successful in concealing their occupant.
Many priest holes were designed by Nicholas Owen, who spent much of his life building priest holes to protect the lives of persecuted priests. After the Gunpowder Plot, Owen himself was captured, taken to the Tower of London and tortured to death on the rack. He was canonised as a martyr by Pope Paul VI in 1970.

Priest holes could be under floors, behind false fireplaces disguised by soot covered bricks, under stairwells and behind false cupboards. Examples of priest holes:











Some places are so well concealed that they weren't rediscovered until 300+ years after they were made!

England's castles and country houses commonly had some precaution in the event of a surprise, such as a secret means of concealment or escape that could be used at a moment's notice. However, in the time of legal persecution the number of secret chambers and hiding-places increased in the houses of the old Catholic families. These often took the form of apartments or chapels in secluded parts of the houses, or in the roof space, where Mass could be celebrated with the utmost privacy and safety. Nearby there was usually an artfully contrived hiding-place, not only for the officiating priest to slip into in case of emergency, but also to provide a place where the vestments, sacred vessels, and altar furniture could be stored on short notice.  Priest's holes were built in fireplaces, attics, Chimney's and staircases and were largely constructed between the 1550s and 1605.

As I have stated, not all priests were so lucky. On 12 July 1588, Robert Ludlam and fellow priest Nicholas Garlick were arrested at Padley, home of Catholic recusant, John Fitzherbert. The raid was made for the purpose of arresting Fitzherbert; the finding of two priests was an unexpected bonus. In Derby Gaol, Ludlam and Garlick met with another priest, Richard Simpson, who had been earlier condemned to death but had been granted a reprieve, either, as stated by most sources, including Richard Challoner, because he had given some hope that he would attend a Protestant service, or, as suggested by Sweeney, because the Queen may have given orders to halt the persecution of priests to remove the threat of invasion from Spain. Whether or not Simpson was wavering, it is certain that he remained firm after his meeting with Garlick and Ludlam. The three priests were tried on 23 July 1588, were found guilty of treason, and were sentenced to be hanged, drawn, and quartered. The sentence was carried out the next day, at St Mary's Bridge, in Derby. Ludlam was the last of the three to be executed, and, according to eyewitnesses, stood smiling while the execution of Garlick was being carried out, and smiled still when his own turn came. His last words, and the only words of his that are recorded, were Venite benedicti Dei ("Come, you blessed of God"), which he uttered just before he was thrown off the ladder. 

Hung, Drawn and Quartered is where the convicted traitor was fastened to a hurdle, or wooden panel, and drawn by horse to the place of execution, where he was then hanged (almost to the point of death), emasculated, disembowelled, beheaded, and quartered (chopped into four pieces). His remains would then often be displayed in prominent places across the country, to serve as a warning of the fate of traitors. For reasons of public decency, women convicted of high treason were instead burned at the stake.

The execution of Hugh Despenser the Younger to give you an example.

Mary Queen of Scots
Mary, Queen of Scots, a follower of the Catholic faith, became entangled in several "papist" conspiracies. In 1569, this unfortunate Queen passed through the town, escorted by the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was Bess of Hardwick's fourth husband. She was enroute from Wingfield Manor to Tutbury Castle during this journey. Queen Mary also sought refuge in Derby during her last sombre voyage in 1584, heading to Tutbury and Fotheringay under the watchful eye of her jailer, Sir Ralph Sadler.
Wingfield Manor, Derbyshire

After resting at Wingfield, she travelled by coach to Derby, where makeshift bridges had been erected over streams to facilitate her passage. In Derby, she spent the night at Babington Hall, hosted by Widow Beaumont. Queen Mary extended her greetings to her hostess, acknowledging their shared status as widows, and expressed hope for an agreeable coexistence, unburdened by husbands.

The Bailiffs, Thomas York and Robert Wood, were tasked with maintaining strict surveillance throughout the town and the Market Place that night, deploying guards outside Babington Hall. The following day, she continued her journey to Tutbury. The plot in which young Anthony Babington of Dethick, the owner of Babington Hall, was implicated ultimately hastened her tragic fate.
Babington Hall

The surviving farmhouse 

In 1558, Mary Queen of Scots, the granddaughter of Henry VIII's elder sister Margaret, challenged Elizabeth for the English throne but met with failure. Catholics contended that, as Elizabeth had been declared illegitimate in 1536, Mary's claim to the throne held more weight. According to the Catholic Church, Elizabeth was the result of an unlawful marriage, while Mary, as the paternal granddaughter of Henry VIII's older sister Margaret, was the rightful English heir. The farmhouse in question is believed to be the place where plans were thought up of a significant conspiracy, one aimed at liberating Mary, Queen of Scots, and assassinating Queen Elizabeth of England. The connection to the ill-fated Scottish queen can be traced through Anthony Babington, the former owner of Dethick Manor Farm near Matlock in Derbyshire. It was Babington who initiated the eponymous plot, which came to light thanks to double agents operating under the watchful eye of Queen Elizabeth's spymaster, Francis Walsingham. Utilising a letter from Mary to the conspirators, Walsingham orchestrated her arrest and subsequent trial, culminating in her execution on February 8, 1587. Babington himself met a grim fate, found guilty of treason and subjected to hanging, drawing, and quartering, along with fellow conspirators who had convened at his residence.

Queen Elizabeth I, died on 24 March 1603 at the age of 69 after a reign of 45 years. Many now believe she died by blood poisoning, but a post-mortem at the time wasn't permitted. Derby with the rest of the nation now mourned the loss of a queen. 
James VI of Scotland succeeded to the English throne on the death of his cousin Elizabeth I who had no direct heirs. As the new James I of England, he rode south and was to spend almost the entire rest of his life in England, based at Whitehall. He is thus known to us as James VI and I.
King James VI and I.

From 1601, in the last years of Elizabeth's life, certain English politicians, notably her chief minister Sir Robert Cecil maintained a secret correspondence with James to prepare in advance for a smooth succession. With the Queen clearly dying, Cecil sent James a draft proclamation of his accession to the English throne in March 1603. Elizabeth died in the early hours of 24 March, and James was proclaimed king in London later the same day.
On 5 April, James left Edinburgh for London, promising to return every three years (a promise that he did not keep), and progressed slowly southwards. Local lords received him with lavish hospitality along the route and James was amazed by the wealth of his new land and subjects, claiming that he was "swapping a stony couch for a deep feather bed". James arrived in the capital on 7 May, nine days after Elizabeth's funeral. His new subjects flocked to see him, relieved that the succession had triggered neither unrest nor invasion. On arrival at London, he was mobbed by a crowd of spectators.

Under King James's rule, persecution persisted, though it took on a milder form. The king, perpetually in need of funds, found it more profitable to impose fines rather than imprison individuals who refused to attend church services. This meant that not only prominent families like the FitzHerberts and the Curzons were subjected to fines, but also individuals from various walks of life, including carpenters, cutlers, miners, and labourers, were brought before the courts.
This pursuit of heresy persisted until the eve of the Civil War. In 1642, the Lord-Lieutenant and the Mayor of Derby (the city had a mayor at the time) accompanied by dragoons, visited the Grange in West Hallam, Derbyshire, the residence of Mr. Powtrel, a known papist. After an extensive search, they discovered an underground passage and arrested the Jesuit priest Endymion Porter, who had been hiding there.

One of the most sensational papist incidents was the Gunpowder Plot, which caused great commotion. The town's bells rang in response to the discovery of this conspiracy. All Saints' Church held a special annual service of thanksgiving for the king's safety in commemoration of the thwarted gunpowder conspiracy. To mark this event, people have traditionally burned effigies of Guy Fawkes in bonfires around the town, a tradition that continues to this day.

An effigy of Guy Fawkes is burned during Bonfire Night

The Gunpowder Plot holds significant importance in Derbyshire, and its memory endures to the present day. Markeaton Park hosts an annual fireworks display and bonfire, while numerous schools, churches, local scout groups, and events at places like Darley Park mark the occasion with bonfires and firework displays. This annual celebration, known as Bonfire Night, takes place every year on the 5th of November and the foiled gunpowder plot has been celebrated for over 417 years. Families get together for firework displays and bonfires 

The Gunpowder Plot, a failed scheme to detonate explosives beneath England's King James I and the Parliament on November 5, 1605, remains a pivotal historical event. Guy Fawkes is the name most famously associated with this notorious plot. Perhaps due to his capture while in the act, he has become the iconic figure of Bonfire Night, as his effigy is traditionally placed atop the bonfire. The plot involved a total of 13 conspirators, one of whom hailed from Derbyshire.
Penny for the guy

Families come together to enjoy firework displays and bonfires during this time. Local communities congregate in parks or allotments, and as you walk through the streets at night, you're surrounded by numerous firework displays and the aroma of various items burning in people's bonfires.

One particular tradition known as "penny for the guy" involves children crafting effigies of Guy Fawkes using old clothes filled with straw. In the days leading up to Bonfire Night on November 5th, these children wheel their Guy effigies around asking "Penny For The Guy?", which are later set alight atop the bonfire. The concept behind "Penny for the Guy" is that British children collect money to purchase fireworks for Guy Fawkes night.


Some of these gatherings take on a carnival-like atmosphere. People set up barbecues, fire pits to provide light and warmth, enjoy music (including live bands), watch firework displays, have Guy Fawkes competitions (best effigy or funniest etc) savour sweets, and, of course, indulge in everyone's favourite treat, Bonfire Toffee.

Ingredients
oil, for greasing
450g dark brown sugar
125ml hot water
¼ tsp cream of tartar
115g black treacle
115g golden syrup
Tradition dictates that it has to be Lyle's! Guinness World Records confirms the classic Lyle's Golden Syrup tin as the world's oldest unchanged brand packaging. It has remained essentially the same since the tin took shape in 1883. Just like the authentic taste that makes it a kitchen cupboard staple.

STEP 1
Line the base and sides of an A4 sized tin with non-stick parchment and then grease it really well.

STEP 2
Put the sugar and hot water in a heavy bottomed pan and heat gently until the sugar is dissolved, do not stir the mixture at any point instead tilt the pan if you need to move it around.

STEP 3
Weigh out your remaining ingredients, if you put them in a really well greased jug they will be much easier to pour out. Once the sugar has dissolved add all the ingredients and pop the sugar thermometer in, you can use the thermometer to give it a quick swirl but try not to mix it too much.

STEP 4
Bring to the boil and boil until you reach soft crack on your thermometer (270/140C) This may take up to 30 minutes, be patient and do not leave the pan unattended as it can change quickly. As soon as it reaches the temp, tip it into your tin and leave it to cool.

STEP 5
Once cool remove it from the tin a break up with a toffee hammer or rolling pin. Store in an airtight tin or wrap up in boxes or cellophane bags to give as gift.


The gunpowder conspirators were: 

Robert (b. 1568) and Thomas Wintour (b. 1571–72) sons of George Wintour of Huddington Court in Worcestershire, and his wife Jane (née Ingleby), daughter of Sir William Ingleby of Ripley Castle near Knaresborough.
Thomas Winter was among the first to be drawn into the plot. His brother Robert was recruited later. It was Thomas who tried to get the conspirators to abandon the plot when he realised that it had been discovered.

John and Christopher Wright were born to Robert Wright and his second wife, Ursula Rudston, daughter of Nicholas and Jane Rudston of Hayton. John was baptised at Welwick in Yorkshire, on 16 January 1568, and Christopher was born in 1570. Their sister, Martha, married Thomas Percy in 1591. The brothers were pupils at St Peter's School in York, along with Guy Fawkes.

Thomas Percy was the younger of two sons born to Edward Percy of Beverley and his wife Elizabeth (née Waterton). His father was a son of Jocelyn/Josceline Percy (died 1532), whose father was Henry Percy, 4th Earl of Northumberland. Thomas was the great-grandson of Henry Percy, 4th Earl of Northumberland, and the second cousin once removed of the 4th Earl's descendant, Henry Percy, 9th Earl of Northumberland (a very wealthy, powerful family.) Thomas Percy was a violent, wild character. He was married to Christopher and John's sister, Martha. These brothers were viewed as dangerous Catholics by the authorities before they had even been drawn into the plot.

Francis Tresham was Born in about 1567, Francis Tresham was the eldest son of Sir Thomas Tresham, of Rushton Hall in Northamptonshire, and Meriel Throckmorton, daughter of Sir Robert Throckmorton of Coughton in Warwickshire. The most reluctant of the conspirators, it may have been Tresham who sent the “Monteagle letter” warning his brother-in-law not to attend Parliament.

Thomas Bates was born at Lapworth in Warwickshire and was married to Martha Bates. He was employed as a retainer to Sir Robert Catesby's family, and with his wife lived in a cottage on the Catesby family estate. He was brought into the plot because of his money.

Sir Everard Digby was of Leicestershire origin. He served on two crusades, and by 1418 Sir Everard "Greenleaf" Digby was Lord of Tilton and owner of the manor at Drystoke (Stoke Dry), and Rutland's member of Parliament. He was brought into the plot because of his wealth.

Robert Catesby born after 2 March 1572, the third and only surviving son and heir of Sir William Catesby of Lapworth in Warwickshire, by his wife Anne Throckmorton, a daughter of Sir Robert Throckmorton (c.1513–1581), KG, of Coughton Court in Warwickshire (by his second wife, Elizabeth Hussey). He was a lineal descendant of Sir William Catesby (1450–1485), the influential councillor of King Richard III who was captured at the Battle of Bosworth and executed. Robert was the mastermind and recruiter behind the plot. Robert Catesby was mixed up in the ill-fated rebellion of the Earl of Essex against the dominance of Robert Cecil, Queen Elizabeth's chief advisor. That escapade saw him wounded, imprisoned and fined. From then on he was seen as a dangerous character by the English government. He had, apparently, been involved in discussions with the Spanish government in 1602 about instigating a rebellion in England. Robert Catesby masterminded the Gunpowder Plot, having decided that the Spanish would not help the English Catholics.

Robert Keyes was the son of the Protestant Rector of Staveley in North Derbyshire. His mother was a daughter of Sir Robert Tyrwhitt of Kettleby in Lincolnshire, and related to the Catholic Babthorpes of Osgodby. Keyes is still a name in Derby to this day. Robert Keyes looked after the gunpowder

John Grant Born sometime around 1570, John Grant lived at Norbrook, near Snitterfield in Warwickshire. He was married to Thomas Wintour's sister, Dorothy, with a son, Wintour Grant. He is described by author Antonia Fraser as a melancholy individual, but also an intellectual who studied Latin and other languages. He was a resolute character, as the poursuivants who searched his home for Catholic priests were no doubt aware; he was so unwelcoming to them that they eventually shied away from Norbrook. John Grant was also involved in the Essex Rebellion against Elizabeth I, as were several of the men with whom he became better acquainted through what became known as the Gunpowder Plot. John Grant bought weapons for the conspirators.

Guy Fawkes was born in 1570 in Stonegate, York. He was the second of four children born to Edward Fawkes, a proctor and an advocate of the consistory court at York, and his wife, Edith. Guy's parents were regular communicants of the Church of England, as were his paternal grandparents; his grandmother, born Ellen Harrington, was the daughter of a prominent merchant, who served as Lord Mayor of York in 1536. Recruited as the gunpowder expert, Guy Fawkes was caught red-handed in the basement storeroom under the House of Lords with the barrels of gunpowder on the 5 November 1605.

Some of the conspirators 

The Gunpowder Plot was a failed attempt to blow up England’s King James I and the Parliament on November 5, 1605. The plot was organised by Robert Catesby in an effort to end the persecution of Roman Catholics by the English government. Catesby and others hoped to replace the country’s Protestant government with Catholic leadership. 
At about midnight on the night of November 4-5, Sir Thomas Knyvet, a justice of the peace, found Guy Fawkes lurking in a cellar under the Parliament building and ordered the premises searched. Thirty-six barrels of gunpowder were found, and Fawkes was taken into custody. When asked by one of the interrogators what he was doing in possession of so much gunpowder, Fawkes answered that his intention was,

“To blow you Scotch beggars back to your native mountains.”

The plan very nearly succeeded. It was only thanks to an anonymous letter to the authorities, received in late October, that the King, his family and his Protestant ministers were not all murdered.
An extract reads: ‘they shall receive a terrible blow this parliament and yet they shall not see who hurts them’.

Royal guards searched The House of Lords at midnight and in the early hours of 5 November Fawkes was discovered in the cellars, with a fuse, a small lamp, a box of matches and 36 poorly-hidden barrels of gunpowder.

Guy Fawkes being caught

The Lantern that he was carrying that night

Guy Fawkes was brought to the Tower of London to be imprisoned and interrogated. Sir William Waad, Lieutenant of the Tower, led much of the interrogation in the Great Hall of the King’s House, a 16th-century timber-framed building that overlooks Tower Green. 
At the time, the monarch or Privy Council had to authorise any form of torture. James I himself wrote the royal warrant: ‘If he will not other ways confesse, the gentler tortures are first to be used upon him, and then step by step you may employ the harsher, and so speede youre goode work.’

When the ‘gentler tortures’ failed, it’s highly likely that Fawkes was racked, probably in the White Tower dungeons.
The rack was a horrible device, designed to inflict excruciating pain as a prisoner’s limbs were pulled in opposing directions until the joints were dislocated or separated. 
Guy Fawkes’s signature before and after his interrogation seems to show that he was indeed tortured; his writing hand seems to have been badly damaged.

After being tortured, Fawkes revealed he was a participant in an English Catholic conspiracy to annihilate England’s Protestant government and replace it with Catholic leadership. What became known as the Gunpowder Plot was organised by Robert Catesby, an English Catholic whose father had been persecuted by Queen Elizabeth I for refusing to conform to the Church of England. Guy Fawkes had converted to Catholicism, and his religious zeal led him to fight in the army of Catholic Spain in the Protestant Netherlands. Catesby and the handful of other plotters rented a cellar that extended under the House of Lords building, and Fawkes planted the gunpowder there. 

UK Houses of Parliament 

However, as the November 5th opening of Parliament approached, Lord Monteagle, who happened to be the brother-in-law of one of the conspirators, received an anonymous letter cautioning him against attending Parliament on that date. Monteagle promptly notified the government, and mere hours before the planned attack, Guy Fawkes and the explosives were discovered. King James' government, through the interrogation of Fawkes, acquired the identities of his co-conspirators.

Upon hearing of Guy Fawkes' capture, Robert Keyes swiftly mounted his horse and fled toward the Midlands. He was intercepted at Highgate by Rookwood, who was in a hurry to inform Catesby and the others about the unfolding events. After Keyes and Rookwood caught up with Catesby, Percy, Thomas Bates, and John and Christopher Wright, Keyes decided to part ways and made his way to Lord Mordaunt's residence at Drayton, where he sought refuge. Suspicions were raised about him on November 6th, and he was eventually apprehended several days later.

Holbeche House

Following the failure of their plot, the fugitives sought refuge at Holbeche House, which was owned by Stephen Lyttelton. They had acquired supplies from Warwick Castle on November 6th and weapons and gunpowder from Hewell Grange on November 7th, but the powder became damp due to rain. Upon their arrival at Holbeche House around 10 pm, a mishap occurred when gunpowder left to dry in front of the fire ignited from a stray spark, causing injuries to several of the conspirators.

The fireplace

Around noon on the following day, November 8, 1605, the house was encircled by a group led by Richard Walsh, the Sheriff of Worcestershire, initially in pursuit of those responsible for the raid on Warwick Castle. This led to a fierce confrontation, and some of the house's walls still bear the marks of musket holes from the storming in 1605.

During this encounter, John Wright, Christopher Wright, Thomas Percy, and Robert Catesby were fatally shot. The surviving chief conspirators, including Guy Fawkes, pleaded not guilty but were subsequently found guilty of treason. They were sentenced to the gruesome fate of hanging, drawing, and quartering in London.
Moments before his scheduled execution on January 31, 1606, Guy Fawkes made a desperate move, leaping from a ladder while ascending to the gallows, which resulted in a broken neck and immediate death. In a similar attempt, Robert Keyes tried to break his own neck but was unsuccessful, leading to his being led to the quartering block fully conscious.

Following the failed Gunpowder Plot, new laws were instituted in England that eliminated the right of Catholics to vote, among other repressive restrictions.
In 1606, Parliament established November 5 as a day of public thanksgiving. Guy Fawkes Night (also referred to as Guy Fawkes Day and Bonfire Night) now is celebrated annually across Great Britain on November 5 in remembrance of the Gunpowder Plot. As dusk falls, villagers and city dwellers across Britain light bonfires, set off fireworks and burn effigies of Fawkes. 
The plotters were horribly executed even Catesby's and Percy's bodies were dug up and mutilated. This served as an example of what would happen should anyone dare to stage a Catholic plot against the government. The Gunpowder Plot was the last Catholic plot in England.

Print of the execution of the conspirators in January 1606

Every 6-year-old in Great Britain will be able to tell you:

Remember, remember the Fifth of November,
The Gunpowder Treason and Plot,
I know of no reason
Why the Gunpowder Treason
Should ever be forgot.
Guy Fawkes, Guy Fawkes, t'was his intent
To blow up the King and Parli'ment.
Three-score barrels of powder below,
Poor old England to overthrow;
By God's Mercy he was catch'd 
With a dark lantern and burning match.
Holla boys, Holla boys, let the bells ring.
Holloa boys, holloa boys, God save the King!
And what should we do with him? Burn him!

Part of Markeaton Firework Display

A Church service at All Saints' when King James reigned differed little from one today. Although the same building that Liversage attended, it was altered inside, 

1. There were no altars, which used to be of stone fixed to the wall, no side-chapels, no images of the saints, and niches were empty;

2. There was a movable wooden communion table where the high altar had once been fixed;

3. In place of the Latin gospels was the Authorised Translation of the Bible, and in place of the Latin missals the Book of Common Prayer;

4. The chalices, the pyx, the censers, the crucifixes of the old church had long been melted down, and replacing them was only a silver cup with a cover for the communion wine, a pewter flagon and basin;

5. in the vestry hung two white surplices instead of the elaborate vestments of olden times;

6. the pulpit had a green cloth and cushion.

In 1621 an hour-glass (two bulbs and some fine sand-the sand running from one to the other in an hour) had been fitted to time the sermons. In 1630 the Churchwardens provided two collecting boxes. The Judge's pew was still there. From time to time the floor was strewn with fresh rushes, because there was no heating. Richard Crowshaw, a London merchant born at Markeaton, gave money to pay a clergyman to lecture every Friday morning for the people coming into Derby market. This lecture was regularly given for over 150 years, until the Corporation, without authority, changed it to Sunday evening.

Both before and after the Reformation, All Saints' Church found various means to raise funds. The Virginia Company, established to launch a colony in America, organised a draw or lottery, a practice deemed lawful at the time. Parishioners of All Saints' were so generous in their subscriptions that the Company contributed toward church renovations. When a new treble bell was needed, the bachelors of the parish rallied together and funded its creation. George Oldfield cast this bell in his foundry in Nottingham. It was brought back to All Saints' in 1621, installed in the tower, and christened the "Bachelors' Bell."

In the nave of the church, the Bishop's Court, and possibly that of the Archdeacon, held their sessions. A portion of the south aisle was cordoned off to accommodate the official seat and desk. This area might have witnessed arbitration proceedings, including the dispute between Quarndon and All Saints' mother-church regarding the financial responsibility of Quarndon's inhabitants toward the church's repairs. In this context, the Churchwardens purchased a quart of sack (wine) for those involved.

Protestants were keen on the public reading of the Bible. Printing made books more accessible, but their cost remained prohibitive for common people. Each church had a Bible available for the public, and at All Saints', a designated reading desk housed religious books securely chained in place, making them available for parishioners to read at their convenience. This reading desk effectively served as Derby's initial public library.

Regarding literacy, formal education was scarce, with Derby School being a notable exception. As early as 1605, Joan Walton bequeathed money for the instruction of underprivileged Derby children. Small schools, often hosted in homes, began to emerge. Since printed primers were not yet prevalent, children were taught to read from a "horn book," an oak board affixed with a sheet of paper displaying the alphabet and Lord's Prayer in archaic English script, covered with a thin sheet of horn for protection.

George Villiers, the Duke of Buckingham

In the final year of his life King James had become increasingly frail and was often ill. When he became sick with a tertian ague – a malarial fever – at the beginning of March 1625, his physicians fully expected him to recover as he so often had before. 
Throughout his illness, George Villiers, the Duke of Buckingham and King James’s favourite, was at the king’s bedside. King James did briefly appear to improve but when he began to deteriorate again, Buckingham sent for his own doctor who had previously helped him recover from a fever. Buckingham applied poultices to the king and later – without informing the royal physicians – gave King James medicine known as a cordial.

King James took a turn for the worse and refused to drink any more of the cordial. Already, rumours about Buckingham poisoning the king were being circulated. On the 25th March, King James had a stroke. He was also suffering with severe dysentery. It was clear to all, including the king himself, that he was dying. He died two days later with both Buckingham and his son Charles at his side. The twenty-four year old Charles was now Charles I of England, and Buckingham was the only man of King James’s court to maintain his position under the new king.

Whether Buckingham poisoned King James – unintentionally or not – still remains a matter of debate but it was widely believed at the time that he had a hand in King James’s death. Despite the king’s favour, Buckingham was hugely unpopular – in part due to his role in negotiating Charles’s marriage to the Catholic princess Henrietta Maria of France but also as a result of his repeated interference in foreign policy. Fearing his power over Charles, Parliament planned to remove him from his position of influence by impeachment. Among the many accusations against him, the most incendiary was that he had indeed poisoned King James I during his final illness, perhaps with Charles’s collusion.

Refusing to remove his closest companion, Charles was forced to dissolve Parliament to prevent Buckingham’s impeachment, an action that also cast direct suspicion on the king himself. Even up to the time of his trial in 1649, Parliamentarians made use of this suspicion to discredit Charles. Buckingham’s decision to treat King James against the advice of his doctors had far reaching effects that no-one could never have foreseen.

King Charles I
Charles I remains the only English monarch to have been tried and executed for treason.

In 1637, the Corporation secured a "contemporary" charter from King Charles I, a charter that abolished the position of Bailiff, which had been held by the last two individuals, Henry Mellor and John Hope. The newly established Town Council included:
i. A Mayor.
ii. 10 Aldermen.
iii. 14 Brethren.
iv. 14 Common Councillors.

Within the Town Council hierarchy, Brethren held seniority and greater significance compared to Common Councillors, while Aldermen held a higher rank than Brethren. At the pinnacle of this structure was the Mayor, the most esteemed as the chief citizen. Consequently, the Town Council comprised thirty-nine members, equating to one member for every 100 individuals.

The Charter initially listed the first Mayor, Henry Mellor, and the entire Council. Furthermore, once an individual became a member of the Town Council, their membership was lifelong or until they departed from the town. Vacancies were addressed in the following manner:
a) An Alderman by the Aldermen choosing one of the brethren;
b) A Brother by the Aldermen and the brethren choosing one of the Common Councillors;
c) A Common Councillor by the whole Council choosing a burgess from outside.

In essence, the Town Council was self-selecting, earning it the title of a closed corporation. The Council operated independently and was not answerable to the general public. It never engaged in electoral processes to gauge public preferences, nor could the people vote out councillors who failed to meet their expectations.
As stipulated in the Charter, the Corporation was authorised to appoint the following officials:
1. The Lord High Steward, an appointment of honour, useful to the town, for the High Steward was a patron at court and a sort of representative in the House of Lords. The first was the Earl of Devonshire.

2. Four Chamberlains, who received the town's income. These posts were likewise honorary, and made yearly.

3. Town Clerk, a permanent and paid official, now heard of for the first time, who did the council's business.

4. The Sargeant carried the mace before the Mayor.

5. Six Constables armed with short halberts to walk with the Mayor and "guard" his person. (The halbert was a battle-axe with a short spear-point.)

The Mayor would appoint one of the clergy to serve as his Chaplain. During a civic service, the Chaplain would offer prayers for the Mayor and the Lord High Steward, mentioning them by name. It's worth noting that the Aldermen held pivotal roles in this structure. They not only selected the Mayor but also had control over the Council's composition, effectively making them the true leaders of the town.

The two silver maces of the Bailiffs were merged into a single town mace, which was carried in front of the Mayor. The Aldermen sported long black gowns adorned with fur, reminiscent of the livery gowns seen in the City of London. They made a splendid sight as they entered the Council Chamber at the Guildhall in the Market Place.

The process of selecting the Mayor unfolded as follows. The town boasted four justices of the peace, namely the Mayor, the former Mayor, and the two most senior Aldermen. On Michaelmas Day, these four would convene at All Saints' Church to choose a Mayor, typically selecting the youngest among the Aldermen who had not yet served in this role. Subsequently, they would exit the church, proceed to the Market Place, and announce the newly appointed Mayor to the entire town at the Market Cross. Following this proclamation, the Town Council and its officials would accompany the Mayor to his home for a celebratory meal. To ensure that the burden of the feast was not solely on His Worship's shoulders, each member of the Council was expected to contribute a dish of meat in advance.

Michaelmas, or the Feast of Michael and All Angels, is celebrated on the 29th of September every year.

During King Charles's reign, the Corporation enclosed a portion of the common land located beyond St. Alkmund's Church, which had been a part of the town's possession since Saxon times. The townspeople held grazing rights on this land. Frustrated by their inability to vote out Town Council members during elections, they resorted to breaking the Corporation's fences. This act of defiance led to the imprisonment of several individuals.

At one point, King Charles I visited Derby on his journey north and stayed at a "grand residence" in the Market Place called Newcastle House. The Bailiffs, Stephen Sleigh and Robert Brookhouse, arranged for the provision of a fat ox, six fat sheep, and a purse of gold to be presented to the Duke of Newcastle. This generous offering was intended to host a suitable dinner for His Majesty and invite the Corporation to join in the event.

Newcastle House in 1971 being demolished to make way for what was the new assembly rooms.

King Charles I was en route to the town after arduous negotiations with the Scots during what was referred to as "The Bishops War." Charles I spent a night in the town, presenting an opportunity for the Corporation, consisting of the burgesses and the two annually elected Bailiffs. It was well known that the King was in dire need of funds, having governed without Parliament for nearly six years, and was actively seeking ways to replenish the treasury. On the other hand, the burgesses were seeking concessions. The town's charter, although technically renewed with the accession of every monarch, required significant modernization and streamlining to facilitate the administration of Derby. It was an opportunity for a mutually beneficial arrangement.
A passage from the town's annals sheds light on what transpired: '1635. Charles I was at Derby and slept at the grand room in the Market Place. The Corporation provided the Earl of Newcastle, on behalf of the King, with a fat ox, a calf, six fat sheep, and a purse of gold to enable him to host a grand dinner…'
It's worth noting that the host for this event was William Cavendish, the 1st Earl of Newcastle and Lord Lieutenant of the county. The burgesses of the Corporation not only supplied most of the refreshments but also offered the Duke gold as an incentive. The gold would undoubtedly have been passed on to the King before the grand banquet. By the time the King resumed his journey to London the following day, the treasury had received a significant boost, and the burgesses had secured a new charter.
This charter granted the town new revenue-raising opportunities and enhanced the Corporation's legal functions. Notably, it replaced the two Bailiffs with a single Mayor and established the bench of aldermen, a system that endured until the local government reforms in 1974. Additionally, the charter, renewed in 1682, designated the King's host, Lord Newcastle, as the hereditary High Steward of the Borough, a position that subsequently passed to his Devonshire relatives and continued until 1974.

The Bishop Wars were the result of Charles’s endeavour to enforce Anglican observances in the Scottish Church and of the determination of the Scots to abolish episcopacy. A riot in Edinburgh in 1637 quickly led to national resistance in Scotland; and, when in November 1638 the General Assembly at Glasgow set Charles’s orders at defiance, he gathered an English force and marched toward the border in 1639. Lacking sufficient funds and lacking confidence in his troops, however, Charles agreed, by the Pacification of Berwick, to leave the Scots alone. The first Bishops’ War thus ended without battle.
Misunderstandings broke out as to the interpretation of the pacification treaty; and Charles, having discovered that the Scots were intriguing with France, determined again on the use of force. To raise money, he once more called a Parliament in England (April 1640). This Short Parliament, as it was called, insisted first on discussing grievances against the government and showed itself opposed to a renewal of the war against the Scots. Charles thereupon dissolved Parliament and raised a new expedition on his own. The subsequent military successes of the Scots in the second Bishops’ War and their seizure of the whole of Northumberland and Durham made it necessary for Charles to summon the Long Parliament (November 1640), thus precipitating the English Civil War.

King Charles I found himself compelled to engage in negotiations with the Scots at Ripon, often referred to as the "Treaty of Ripon." This negotiation aimed to conclude the second Bishops' War, a conflict between Charles I and the Scottish covenanters. Charles faced a challenging situation as he possessed few bargaining chips. According to the armistice's terms, the Scots retained control over the six northern counties and were entitled to daily expenses amounting to £860. It was evident that the king's authority had diminished, and he was no longer in command of the situation.

The crisis of 1629-60 originated in Charles I's belief that by the royal prerogative he could govern without the advice and consent of Parliament.
This was matched by Parliament's insistence that it had a necessary role in Government, particularly in the granting of supply (tax income) to the Crown and in redressing the grievances of those ruled by the King.
In comparison to the turmoil unleashed by the Thirty Years' War (1618–48) on the European continent, the British Isles, under the rule of Charles I, experienced a period of relative peace and economic prosperity during the 1630s. However, as the late 1630s approached, Charles's regime began to lose favor across a wide spectrum within his kingdoms.

During the era commonly known as his "Personal Rule" (1629–40), which his opponents derisively termed the "Eleven-Year Tyranny" due to his dissolution of Parliament and rule by decree, Charles employed questionable fiscal measures. The most notable among these was "ship money," an annual levy intended to fund naval improvements, which, in 1635, was expanded from English ports to inland towns. This extension to inland towns was viewed as a new tax implemented without parliamentary consent.

In conjunction with ecclesiastical reforms undertaken by Charles's trusted advisor, William Laud, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the prominent roles played in these reforms by Henrietta Maria, Charles's Catholic queen, and her courtiers, many in England became apprehensive. Nevertheless, despite the murmurs of discontent, there's little doubt that had Charles been able to govern his other territories as effectively as he did in England, his peaceful rule might have continued indefinitely. However, it was Scotland and Ireland that ultimately led to his downfall.

Plaque commemorating the treaty

The portrait is believed to have been painted around 1637–38, just a few years prior to the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642. This artwork is one among several portraits of Charles created by Van Dyck, which encompass several equestrian portraits. The painting is housed at the National Gallery in London.

In Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire, one Sheriff had sufficed until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when Derbyshire gained its own Sheriff. The Sheriff held the responsibility of making the Assizes a grand and ceremonial event. A decade after the defeat of the Spanish Armada, Francis FitzHerbert of Norbury, serving as the High Sheriff, led a procession of fifty county gentlemen to the county boundary to receive the King's Judge and escort him into town. The Assize Service, conducted at All Saints' Church, was attended by the Judge, the Sheriff, the Mayor, county gentlemen, and lawyers. FitzHerbert hosted an Assize Dinner for the Judge, at which the Judge's attendants, the Sheriff's associates, and friends were present. These events generated employment for stewards, caterers, waiters, cooks, halberdiers, and gaol guards, among others.

After the Assizes concluded, the Sheriff and county gentlemen once more accompanied the Judge to the county boundary, where the next county's Sheriff assumed responsibility for the safety of the King's Judge while on circuit. At the Town Assizes, the Mayor welcomed the Judge at the Market Head.

Before the separation, Derbyshire prisoners were sent to Nottingham. However, the Judge ordered the county to construct a prison. This was the infamous county jail previously mentioned, located on Tenant Street and situated over a brook that was nothing more than an open sewer. During one flood, three prisoners lost their lives. Gaol fever was rampant, and as we've seen, many recusants succumbed to it. Despite the protests of the people, who were accustomed to such conditions, John Manners wrote to the Earl of Shrewsbury, the Lord-Lieutenant, but no action was taken.

When a crime was suspected, a "hue and cry" was raised, compelling all within earshot to chase after the suspected thief or murderer. Edmund Sleigh of Derby had his bay mare stolen by a thief believed to have fled to Manchester. In response, the Derby authorities initiated a hue and cry in Manchester for anyone seen with a bay mare, but the thief eluded capture. Punishments during this period were harsh. Seven men and four women convicted of minor crimes at Derby Town Assizes in 1586 were sentenced to be publicly whipped in the Market Place before a gathered crowd. Debtors were incarcerated, and in one case, a Derby man named Jaspar Lowe had his own brother imprisoned in Derby gaol due to a debt. There, the brother had to remain, surviving on charity, borrowing money, or facing starvation, until he could find a way to settle his debt and prison fees. In a particularly gruesome incident, a woman convicted in 1601 of poisoning her husband was burned alive in Windmill Pit, marking the last instance of this barbaric punishment being carried out in the area.

Paupers had become numerous because of the closing of monasteries, bad trade, wars, village unemployment due to changed agriculture and so on. Elizabeth's Parliament passed the first Poor Law, which ordered:
a. the courts to commit "sturdy beggars" and vagabonds to special prisons called "Houses of Correction." The Corporation had one, and the county built theirs in Walker Lane;

b. the parish to take care of the unfortunate poor who could not help themselves, partly because of the ancient duty of the Church to the poor and partly because the whole country, including the towns, was divided into parishes.

In each parish, two unpaid parishioners were elected, known as the Overseers of the Poor. These overseers had the authority to impose a Poor Rate to provide relief to those in need. For instance, in 1643, the Overseers of All Saints' Parish offered financial assistance to Sarah Brooke, a destitute woman with ten children. They also aided Thomas Tukersall to prevent him from becoming an itinerant, effectively supporting him. Additionally, they covered the burial expenses for impoverished individuals. The Overseers of St. Werburgh's Parish arranged for an orphan child to live with "goodwife" Parker for seven years, with the expectation that the child would become self-sufficient during that time.
Moreover, All Saints' Parish allowed the tolling of its bells at the burial of the poor without charging a fee. This Poor Law represented an early example of a state-sponsored "social service," albeit somewhat rudimentary. Nonetheless, it was pioneering in its effort to provide assistance to those in need. As a result, English towns such as Derby, unlike some in Europe, did not experience a proliferation of beggars, thanks to these early social welfare measures.

During King James's reign, there was a notable increase in charitable bequests to assist the poor. Several individuals from Derby made such contributions to help those in need. S. Botham left funds that could be used to provide free loans for clothing to those requiring assistance. William Wathall and John Walton also left money to be distributed annually to individuals in need. Richard Crowshaw went a step further by not only leaving funds for gifts but also providing a sum that young men could borrow for up to three years if they aimed to establish their businesses.

In Queen Elizabeth's era, Bess of Hardwick constructed almshouses on Full Street to accommodate eight elderly men and four elderly women from the town. These residents received a weekly allowance of 2s. 6d. along with two new gowns each year. They wore a silver plate engraved with "E. S." (Elizabeth Shrewsbury). They were subject to a 2d. fine for missing prayers at All Saints' and could be expelled if found intoxicated. Many years later, the Black Almshouses, named for the black gowns worn by the four men and four women, were established in Bridge Gate by Robert Wilmot of Chaddesden.

In an interesting historical twist, the Corporation was called upon to administer John Storer's bequest (1590) for the poor of Kirk Ireton. Storer had left a fee for a preacher to deliver a "godly sermon" each year on Trinity Sunday in Kirk Ireton Church, following which the Bailiffs were responsible for distributing Storer's gifts. The generous donor had also provided funds to enable the Corporation to hold a dinner after the ceremony.

The Wilmot baronets of Chaddesden and Osmaston both share a common ancestry with the Eardley-Wilmot baronets of Berkswell Hall.

GERVAISE SLEIGH OF THE ASHE He was Bailiff in 1606, and is seen here wearing the
dress of a Derby Burgess at the time King James I came to the throne.

Earliest map of both Derby (bottom left) and Derbyshire in 1610 by John Speed

Derby map 1610 by John Speed, the earliest map of Derby. 

What with church business and what with social work, each parish now had several officers. All Saints', for example, had:

1. Two Churchwardens: these ancient unpaid offices were made to care for the buildings, to manage church estates, and provide everything necessary for services.

2. Two Overseers of the Poor-unpaid.

3. The Parish Clerk: a paid servant, originated in the seventeenth century. The first at All Saints', George Blagrave, was also sexton, a "songman," a surgeon, a woodturner and a poet, who repaired with his own hands the chancel windows. As sexton he had to look after the bells and toll them, supervise the sweeping of the church and the washing of surplices, and was allowed powder and shot wherewith to kill pigeons nesting about the church. George, a parish treasure, was known all over the town.

4. The Parish Beadle, or Constable, a paid official, summoned the parishioners to meetings; called the coroner's jury when a sudden death happened in that parish; saw that people behaved during public worship and did not sleep during the sermon. He had an extra fee for whipping dogs and keeping beggars away from the church. George Freeman was All Saints' Beadle in 1640.

These parish officers were elected through a gathering of all parishioners held in the church vestry, and this is how the meeting itself came to be known as "the Vestry." For instance, George Blagrave was appointed as the parish clerk based on the "voices" (votes) of the parish. All Saints' Vestry functioned democratically in the modern sense, where the people had their say, while Derby Town Council did not share the same democratic structure.

The parish officers were accountable to the Vestry and were required to present their financial accounts, even when they included expenses for dinners and drinks during events like the beating of parish boundaries. Though the fields were no longer blessed, the parishioners, with the bells ringing, would undertake the tradition of beating and feeding small boys while perambulating the parish boundaries, as was customary.

The custom of beating the bounds, also known as perambulating the bounds, is an ancient practice still observed in certain parts of England, Wales, and the New England region of the United States. It traditionally involved striking local landmarks with branches to maintain a collective mental map of parish boundaries, typically done every seven years.

Our ancestors could not conduct church business without partaking in beer. They enjoyed it at Churchwardens' meetings and at Vestries. At one point, All Saints' even had its own brewer, John Davenport, who was a parishioner. The Churchwardens also had a charming tradition of presenting their Vicar with a sugar loaf on New Year's Day, as they did for Dr. Wilmot in 1639.

Chesterfield Derbyshire

Trade with distant regions had seen a decline. The lead market was lost to Chesterfield, and the sale of wool and cloth from the area had ceased, despite the presence of three fulling mills on the Derwent during Queen Mary's reign. "Braggers," who were travelling buyers, used to visit the farms to collect wool, which was then transformed into "jersey," a yarn employed in households for knitting stockings. Francis Mundy leased a rabbit warren on Allestree Moor to John Dicken, a producer of rabbit-skin gloves. In Elizabeth's era, a few cap-makers established themselves in the area, but the primary product exported was malt, made from the high-quality barley cultivated to the south of Derby.

An early 20th century view of the open market on the Morledge. 

During the Reformation, Derby lost its status as a manufacturing and exporting town and, as noted by Camden, transformed into a county and market town. The cattle market located in the Morledge in Derby, as well as the corn market, thrived. Derby's bakers supplied bread to the surrounding villages, and in one instance, John Cooke and three others were fined in Ilkeston for violating the "assize of bread," which meant they provided bread with insufficient weight. The manor houses in the vicinity also conducted their shopping in the town. For example, Roger Columbell, the steward, purchased clothing and other necessary items at Haddon Hall from local establishments in Derby.

Haddon Hall, Derbyshire

Sir Ralph Sadler

The roads of the time did not facilitate trade. Even a short journey from South Wingfield to Tutbury proved challenging for Sir Ralph Sadler. The roads were described as "foul and deep," necessitating the creation of a special path through people's fields. The presence of Queen Mary's coach, a four-wheeled and unwieldy cart without springs, covered by a leather canopy, was among the first of its kind in the area. These vehicles were likely rarely used due to the poor state of the roads. Some boats operated on the Derwent, and there were discussions about potentially improving navigation on the river. Charles I even sought advice from the renowned Dutch civil engineer, Sir Cornelius Vermuyden, and asked the Corporation to provide him with one of their houses. However, no significant actions were taken at this time to address the road and navigation challenges.

Sir Cornelius Vermuyden

The problem of transportation was exacerbated by intermittent shortages of essential goods like corn, which affected different areas at different times. These irregularities in supply made it challenging to distribute goods evenly. As a result, inland towns like Derby, which relied on locally produced goods, often faced difficulties. In 1586, for instance, the price of wheat soared to the point that Justices of the Peace (J.P.'s) were directed to regulate prices. The corn harvest was so poor for three consecutive years that in 1632, Thomas Smith and Nathaniel Hallows, the Bailiffs, took action. They surveyed the town's grain reserves, reduced the number of ale-house keepers and maltsters, and sold corn to the poor at a price lower than the cost.

Another factor contributing to rising prices was the issue of bad coinage. Coins of the time were often clipped and filed, causing a lack of trust in their value. In response to this issue, Queen Elizabeth sent a letter to Derby, as she did to other towns, instructing them to have a goldsmith weigh and stamp coins with their true values. Two stamping irons were provided under seal to the Bailiffs, and the goldsmith had to carry out the process in the presence of a magistrate and respected townspeople to ensure the legitimacy of the coins.

Defeat of the Spanish Armada, 8 August 1588

The reaction of the 3,000 people in Derby upon hearing the news of the great victory over the Spanish Armada is not well-documented. However, it's worth noting that during this period, the town and its residents were known to show their loyalty and support to the crown in various ways. When Queen Elizabeth requested contributions to a "defence fund," Edward Smyth, a butcher from Derby, donated generously, matching the contributions of many of the local landowners. While a few men from Derby might have been called up for military service, it appears that the town only provided two archers and three hillmen for the county forces at the beginning of Elizabeth's reign.

In Tudor times, St. Mary's Bridge in Derby featured a gatehouse, where tolls were collected, and the gates could be closed in case of potential trouble or emergencies. This practice was common because the era was marked by uncertainties, and towns needed to be prepared for various situations. For instance, Tudor armies often lacked discipline. On one occasion, 200 soldiers passing through Derby from Lincolnshire interfered with the townspeople as they were on their way to church on a Sunday morning. In response, the town bell rang, and the Bailiffs, accompanied by the local burgesses, managed to restore order. The bell was also used to summon people in times of conflict, such as when servants of Mr. Vernon clashed with those of Mr. Longford, and during a dispute between Thomas Stanhope of Elvaston Castle and Sir John Zouch within the town. The townsfolk of Derby were known for their intolerance of brawling and disorder.

When Queen Elizabeth passed away, there were concerns about an attempt to place Lady Arabella Stuart on the throne, as she resided nearby at Hardwick Hall. In response to these fears, the Lord-Lieutenant, Magistrates, and the Corporation received orders to suppress any disorder that might arise. Fortunately, no disturbances occurred, and James I was proclaimed as the new monarch in Derby Market Place without any signs of unrest.

Hardwick Hall, Derbyshire

Lady Arabella Stuart in her later years

Arbella Stuart, born with royal lineage and considered by some to have a stronger claim to the English throne than her cousin James VI, faced a tragic fate when her cousin became King of England. Despite never being charged with a crime, she spent her final days in the Tower of London, emaciated and in despair.

During this period, George Creswell, who served as a blacksmith to James I, constructed a half-timbered thatched house in Little Chester. The construction of such houses involved filling the frames with wattle and clay, with the floors made of beaten earth. With houses built in this manner, it's not surprising to learn that a disastrous fire occurred in St. Peter's Parish. To help with firefighting efforts, a ladder was donated by Mrs. Stranger, a widow. This ladder was kept at All Saints' Church, and the donor's intention was that it should only be used on occasions of fire. Fires became less hazardous after 1611, following the construction of the first brick building, a magnificent Jacobean house in the Wardwick. It's worth noting that half of this structure has since been demolished to create Becket Street.


The Jacobean House in 2019. It was home to The Haus restaurant before being sold.

The standard of living was on the rise, and homes had become more comfortable during this period. Edmund Mundy, for example, possessed a greater quantity of goods at Markeaton than his ancestor Sir John. Within the house, one could find stools, chairs, cupboards, and even fire bellows. There was a type of primitive piano known as the virginals for his daughter to play, and a set of draughts for leisure. Edmund's study was adorned with a significant number of printed works. The household boasted pictures adorning the walls, sheets for the beds, damask table-cloths, and linen napkins. However, it's worth noting that items such as china, knives, and forks for the table were not yet commonplace.
Derby Cathedral Clock (formerly All Saints’)

In the past, the All Saints' bell had the responsibility of waking up the parishioners at five o'clock in the morning, and the curfew rang at eight o'clock, even though people were no longer extinguishing their fires. The church had a clock before 1575, and forty years later, a set of mechanical chimes was added, overseen by George Blagrave.

During the time of the Armada, Derby boasted seventy-six public houses, equating to one for every forty people, despite the fact that most families brewed their own ale. Shooting with the longbow was a popular and encouraged activity for national defence. Cockfighting was a widely practiced national sport. In the Elizabethan era, Derby's cockfighting pit was located on Cockpit Hill, but in the early years of James's reign, a new one was constructed on Nuns Green (Nuns Street).

Near the Cornmarket, there was a "bowling alley" where Derby residents enjoyed playing. Boys and men also had a fondness for "wind ball," a game involving tossing a ball between players. Additionally, the old-fashioned football game, similar to the one still celebrated in Ashbourne, called the Shrove Tide, was played in Derby (before Ashbourne) on Shrove Tuesday, which was also marked by the ringing of a pancake bell.
Example of Shrovetide.

The Royal Shrovetide Football Match is a traditional "Medieval football" game still played annually on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday in the town of Ashbourne, Derbyshire, England. Shrovetide ball games have a long history in England, dating back to at least the 12th century during the reign of Henry II (1154–1189). The Ashbourne game, also known as "hugball," has been played since at least around 1667, although the exact origins of the game are shrouded in mystery due to a fire at the Royal Shrovetide Committee office in the 1890s, which destroyed the earliest records. It's worth noting that a similar game was played in the town of Derby before Ashbourne.

The game unfolds over two days, commencing at 2:00 pm on Shrove Tuesday and continuing until 10:00 pm. If a goal is scored (locally referred to as "goaling") before 5:30 pm, a new ball is released, and the game restarts from the town center. Otherwise, play concludes for the day. The ball is rarely kicked, although kicking, carrying, or throwing it is allowed. Instead, it typically moves through the town in a series of "hugs," resembling a massive scrum, often involving dozens or even hundreds of participants. When a goal is scored, the scorer is carried on the shoulders of teammates into the courtyard of the Green Man Royal Hotel. This ceremony returned to the Green Man in 2014 after an absence in 2013 due to the hotel's closure.

The two teams participating in the game are known as the Up'Ards and the Down'Ards, reflecting the local dialect for "upwards and downwards." The Up'Ards traditionally consist of town members born north of Henmore Brook, which runs through the town, while the Down'Ards include those born south of the river. Each team strives to carry the ball back to their respective goal from the "turn-up" point, as opposed to the more conventional method of scoring in the opponent's goal. The game features two goal posts located 3 miles (4.8 km) apart: one at Sturston Mill (where the Up'Ards aim to score) and the other at Clifton Mill (where the Down'Ards score). Although the mills themselves have been demolished, part of their millstones still stand on the riverbank at each location and once served as the scoring posts. In 1996, these scoring posts were replaced by new, smaller millstones mounted on purpose-built stone structures, which are still in use today and require players to be in the river to "goal" a ball, making it more challenging.

To "goal" a ball, a player must strike it against the millstone three successive times. This process involves selecting a scorer en route to the goal, typically someone from Ashbourne or with a well-known family in the community. The chances of a tourist scoring a goal are minimal, but they are encouraged to join the effort to reach the goal. When a ball is "goaled," that particular game concludes.

The rules are relatively few, but some key ones include the prohibition of murder or manslaughter, a disapproval of unnecessary violence, the restriction against carrying the ball in a motorised vehicle, a ban on concealing the ball in bags or clothing, and a rule against entering cemeteries, churchyards, or town memorial gardens. Playing after 10 pm is also forbidden, and to score a goal, the ball must be tapped three times within the goal area.

Up’Ards goal             Down’Ards Goal

In Elizabethan England, theatrical performances were on the rise, and it's likely that the fame of London theaters did reach Derby. In 1572, the townsfolk of Derby staged a play called "Holofernes" on a stage in the Market Place. This play was based on the tale of Holofernes, the general of Nebuchadnezzar, who was slain by Judith. Travelling players also entertained the locals, performing either in the Market Place or in the courtyard of the Virgin Inn.
As for whether they performed any of Shakespeare's works in Derby, it's possible, but historical records may not provide a definitive answer. Shakespeare's plays were popular during his lifetime, and they were performed by various troupes across England, so it's conceivable that his works found their way to Derby.
Additionally, there were "mummers" who would go from house to house during Christmastide, performing ancient farces. They were typically rewarded with ale, cakes, and a few pence for their efforts. One such play was known as "The Old Tup," and it is believed to have survived in the form of a burlesque ballad called the "Derby Ram." (See the link The Derby Ram)

(Christmastide, commonly called the Twelve Days of Christmas, lasts 12 days, from 25 December to 5 January, the latter date being named as Twelfth Night. These traditional dates are adhered to by the Lutheran Church and the Anglican Church.)

In the Elizabethan era and the years that followed, Derby began to see the emergence of notable medical practitioners. Dr. John Jones, residing in Friar Gate, was a forward-thinking physician. Instead of relying on the usual remedies made from unconventional ingredients like snails, he prescribed treatments involving diet, exercise, and massage, showing a more modern approach to healthcare.
Dr. Percival Willoughby, another respected physician, practiced in Derby until the time of the English Civil War. He travelled on horseback to attend to patients in both the town and the surrounding countryside, often saving lives that might have been lost in the hands of less knowledgeable colleagues. Despite their expertise, even these doctors were powerless in the face of a mysterious infectious disease known as the "sweating sickness," which claimed many lives.

In 1586, the plague returned to Derby, causing a significant number of casualties in St. Peter's parish. Other outbreaks affected St. Michael's and St. Alkmund's parishes on separate occasions. In 1592, a severe outbreak began at the house of William Sowter, a butcher in All Saints' parish, and persisted for a year, with the disease afflicting nearly every house in the area.
Apart from diseases and plagues, natural disasters also posed threats. In the year preceding the Spanish Armada's departure, floods damaged St. Mary's Bridge. In 1634, four individuals lost their lives in a heavy snowstorm while travelling from Chaddesden to Derby, and in another severe winter, numerous deer perished in the vicinity of the town.

During this period, accusations of witchcraft were another potential threat. In an era when the causes of natural events were not well understood, many people turned to superstition. Witches were blamed for various misfortunes when no other explanations could be found, and these accusations often led to the condemnation and execution of the accused. The belief in witchcraft and the fear of witches were pervasive, and individuals suspected of practicing witchcraft faced serious consequences.
It's worth noting that the belief in witchcraft and its consequences were not limited to Derby; they were prevalent in various regions during this time, and people's lives were profoundly influenced by these superstitious beliefs.





Old House Museum, Bakewell, Derbyshire.

Carved into an upright of the door frame that leads away from the guide shop, a pair of inverted “V’s” lay atop one another, barely an inch across, creating the illusion of a letter W. 

The Carving

The witch-mark or apotropaic symbol on the doorway of the museum in Bakewell is indeed a fascinating artifact, and it reflects a belief in the power of such symbols to protect against evil intentions, especially those associated with witchcraft. Apotropaic magic, which derives from the Greek term meaning "to turn away," revolves around the idea that creating certain images or symbols can ward off malevolent forces. The symbol on the museum's doorway is just one manifestation of this tradition, which has been present in human culture for thousands of years.

The concept of apotropaic symbolism is not unique to the British Isles; it has been present worldwide in various forms, such as the Turkish evil eye symbol, which continues to be a prevalent amulet for protection. In the British Isles, these protective symbols have taken various forms over time, including prehistoric cave art, Christian crosses, and the grotesques and gargoyles found in architecture. However, certain historical periods, such as the witch-craze of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, saw a significant proliferation of these marks.
These protective symbols are often located on doorways, windows, fireplaces, and other potential points of entry where witches or malevolent spirits might be feared to intrude. The double V symbol and the Daisy-wheel or Hexafoil pattern, with six semi-circular petals stemming from a central circle, are common examples of these markings.

While apotropaic symbols are often associated with homes and churches, they have been found in various places. For instance, in 2018, hundreds of these symbols were discovered in the cave complex of Creswell Crags. These symbols were initially mistaken for local antique graffiti but are now believed to have been created to guard against spirits rising from the depths of the gorge.
The presence of these protective symbols in the Old House in Bakewell, Derbyshire raises intriguing questions about their connection to a unique story from the witch-craze era. This story likely adds an extra layer of historical significance to the witch-mark found on the museum's doorway.

A daisy wheel Hexafoil

The story of the Bakewell witches, dating back to the events of 1608, has indeed captivated the imagination for over two centuries. This intriguing historical tale has continued to pique curiosity and inspire various forms of exploration and entertainment, from early chroniclers like White Watson to modern-day attractions like the Escape Room in Derby City.
The enduring fascination with the Bakewell witches' story highlights its timeless mystique and the enduring interest in historical accounts of alleged witchcraft and supernatural events. It's a testament to the enduring power of storytelling and the way historical mysteries continue to captivate people across generations.

The story of Mrs. Stafford and the travelling Scotsman takes an intriguing turn. It appears that Mrs. Stafford, a milliner and landlady, faced a predicament when her lodger, the Scotsman, failed to pay his rent. Like many landlords and landladies throughout history, she likely decided to evict him, possibly leading to a confrontation.
However, Mrs. Stafford made the fateful decision to keep the Scotsman's belongings as collateral for the unpaid rent. This action set in motion a chain of events that would lead to a curious turn of events in London, where the Scotsman was found hiding in a cellar, dishevelled and in rags. He was then brought before a London magistrate on a charge of felonious intent, and his explanation for his condition was nothing short of astonishing.
The story he told the magistrate was that he'd arrived in London “by magic” - as a result of sorcery. He claimed that he was an innocent man, he'd been asleep in bed in Bakewell when in the early hours, he was awoken by a bright light shining up through chinks in the floorboards in his upstairs room. Peering down, he saw his landlady and her sister, dressed in outdoor clothes, chanting a spell:

“Over thick, over thin,
Now Devil, to the cellar in Lunnon.”
He claimed that in the blink of an eye they vanished. The sudden disappearance of the mysterious figures left the man bewildered, and in an unexpected turn of events, he found himself involuntarily repeating their chant.
“Through thick, through thin,
Now Devil, to the cellar in Lunnon.”

In an instant, he was transported away, still clad in his tattered nightclothes, following in the footsteps of the women who had also been magically conveyed to the same underground cellar. Along their journey, these women had utilised their supernatural abilities to pilfer fine silk and valuable goods from the houses they passed over, and by the light of a lamp, they were dividing their ill-gotten gains. When their lodger suddenly materialised in their midst, Mrs. Stafford appeared unsurprised and even offered him a glass of wine. However, the next thing the accused man remembered was being found alone.
To nearly everyone involved, with the possible exception of the two accused women, this incident was clearly a case of witchcraft. Authorities in Derbyshire were notified, and they conducted a search of the premises in Bakewell. Remarkably, the man's clothing was discovered exactly where he had claimed it would be. His account was accepted over the explanations provided by the women. As a result of their ex-lodger's testimony, these two innocent women from Bakewell were deemed witches beyond any doubt and subsequently put to death in Derby. (One source states they were burned, while another suggests they were hanged.)

Note this is well before the more celebrated ‘Salem Witch’ Trials in 1692.